‘In general, products made by the same brand have been formulated together and tested to work together,’ explains cosmetic chemist, Kelly Dobos. You also need to make sure you’re not using products with conflicting ingredients – like silicone and water – which can cause pilling when they interact. SPF should always be last in your skincare routine (followed by primer and/or makeup) so it’s best to keep heavier skincare products for your evening routine. You’ve probably heard the skincare rule of ‘lightest to heaviest’, and it exists for a reason – if you use a lightweight moisturiser after an oil, the moisturiser won’t be able to penetrate the heavier oil, and will just hang around on top of your skin. Check out INCIdecoder, an online cosmetics database that allows you to search your products, and decode the labels in layman terms. However, pilling isn’t an excuse to ditch the sunscreen – simply find one that works for you. Unfortunately, SPF is a known culprit for pilling, as it often contains iron oxide, zinc oxide or titanium oxide, which all sit on the skin, rather than being absorbed. Oils, beeswax and petrolatum are also occlusive ingredients. Ingredients will be listed from larger amount to smaller amount on the INCI (ingredients list), so if silicones are in the top five, it’s likely to be pretty silicone-heavy. There are hundreds of possible silicone-based ingredients, but keep an eye out for anything ending in ‘-cone’ or ‘-siloxane’. However, you don’t necessarily need to avoid silicones altogether – simply look for products with a lower concentration of them.
‘Friction can then occur with application of further products.’
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‘Silicone is in a family of occlusive ingredients, which means they sit on the skin surface, locking in moisture, so they don’t get absorbed,’ explains Ada Ooi, founder of 001 Skincare. Silicones are known for pilling, and are commonly used in skincare, and makeup primers.
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The good news is there are a number of things we can do to avoid it the bad news is it might take a bit of trial and error.
‘Generally, pilling is the result of either an application error, a mix of incompatible formulations, or inadequate skincare,’ explains Amish Patel, aesthetics practitioner and skincare expert at Intrigue Cosmetic Clinic.
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